Card Control (Control too top)
- Thread starter tomstian
- Start date
).
the miller cascade control just looks like a waterfall, and is available on demand at dananddave.com
Adam
Adam
i use the following:
miller cascade control, available at dan and daves on demand
clip shift dribble control, available on surfaced by chad nelson
top card cover herman pass, sorry i dont kno if thats the actual name.
and play around with doing a kind of 4 for 4 switch but with a half packet of cards, i do this wierd variation and it looks very convincing, just dribble the cards, have them place the card on the left packet, then turn the right packet wich should be in biddle grip face up with pointer finger and then do the 4 for 4 switch but with the one card.
hope this helps
-Danny
miller cascade control, available at dan and daves on demand
clip shift dribble control, available on surfaced by chad nelson
top card cover herman pass, sorry i dont kno if thats the actual name.
and play around with doing a kind of 4 for 4 switch but with a half packet of cards, i do this wierd variation and it looks very convincing, just dribble the cards, have them place the card on the left packet, then turn the right packet wich should be in biddle grip face up with pointer finger and then do the 4 for 4 switch but with the one card.
hope this helps
-Danny
cherry control is a popular one. i use a pass, either the riffle pass, or a classic,
you can do a strip out. or just keep a break and cut it to the top.
you can do a strip out. or just keep a break and cut it to the top.
I have a control that I really like that I call DropStock, but it sends it to the bottom.
For controling it to the top from the center, I usually will do a pass. If a pass doesn't fit for the trick, I find just cuting it at that part usually will work.
Don't worry too much about how it gets there. Just worry about how it LOOKS when it is getting there.
For controling it to the top from the center, I usually will do a pass. If a pass doesn't fit for the trick, I find just cuting it at that part usually will work.
Don't worry too much about how it gets there. Just worry about how it LOOKS when it is getting there.
I find that the following cover all of my controlling to the top needs:
A pass (riffle or otherwise) - learned from RRTCM and Ninja 1
Swivel cut control - think I learned this from one of the Brainstorm volumes by John G (which are great for learning new effects btw)
Multiple shift (for controlling anywhere between 2 and 8 cards to the top) - I learned this from Scams and Fantasies with Cards by Darwin Ortiz. The book is in my other house so i'll look up the proper name of the sleight when I can.
B
A pass (riffle or otherwise) - learned from RRTCM and Ninja 1
Swivel cut control - think I learned this from one of the Brainstorm volumes by John G (which are great for learning new effects btw)
Multiple shift (for controlling anywhere between 2 and 8 cards to the top) - I learned this from Scams and Fantasies with Cards by Darwin Ortiz. The book is in my other house so i'll look up the proper name of the sleight when I can.
B
I do one that is angle proof and is a variation on the topper and various culls. Basically the spectator just touches a card and the card is outjogged and shown around and in that action the card face can be seen yet it is controled to the top. I call it the renaissance force and it is basically a control. If you want, you can palm it out of the deck.
cherry control, invisible pass, bow-to-stern control,
to the bottom you have convincing control, pizzaz (?) control, longitudinal swivel steal
these are all very deceptive when done perfectly
to the bottom you have convincing control, pizzaz (?) control, longitudinal swivel steal
these are all very deceptive when done perfectly
It really depends on what I want to portray as to the where the card is. If I want to have the card to be 'lost' and roughly found an overhand shuffle control works wonders. It also means you can move the card exactly where you want it quite easily.
If I want to prove the card is going in the centre I use LePaul's spread pass quite a lot because the move happens before they think it does. After you close the spread the card is already on top. I use the classic pass quite a bit but not not often as a contol. I believe that the spread pass is easier more justified and a lot more casual to the audiences.
If I am doing an ACR there are so many better ways to control the card to the top LePaul's Bluff Pass and the Marlo Tilt are two of them. I don't use the tilt very often I do use the bluff pass quite a lot. A very very nice little move I don't see used enough is the top change. If you are not comfortable by using the sleight you can easily add a double to show the card again.
A really nice casual off beat multiple shift to the top is the Streamline Control by Ben Earl.
If I want to prove the card is going in the centre I use LePaul's spread pass quite a lot because the move happens before they think it does. After you close the spread the card is already on top. I use the classic pass quite a bit but not not often as a contol. I believe that the spread pass is easier more justified and a lot more casual to the audiences.
If I am doing an ACR there are so many better ways to control the card to the top LePaul's Bluff Pass and the Marlo Tilt are two of them. I don't use the tilt very often I do use the bluff pass quite a lot. A very very nice little move I don't see used enough is the top change. If you are not comfortable by using the sleight you can easily add a double to show the card again.
A really nice casual off beat multiple shift to the top is the Streamline Control by Ben Earl.