I have been splitting cards for a while now but have trouble splitting one card on both sides.I can do it but I have to start a split on one side about half way and then split the other side fully then continue the rest.Does anybody have any solutions?
splitting cards trouble
- Thread starter ninjabennie
- Start date
Splitting cards is definitely tricky business - I learned everything I know from Blake Vogt's Split Sessions. It's a really great tutorial and gives a lot of tips which could solve the problems you're having.
Anyone else have any good tips/references on splitting worth sharing?
Anyone else have any good tips/references on splitting worth sharing?
I would like to hear people's tips on regluing the sides together as that is not covered on split sessions v1. What glue do you use? How do you keep them aligned initially? Thank you!
The Art of Card Splitting goes into how to glue everything along with the list of mats you need to craft your work station. I would say but it is a DVD that is still for sell and well it is not my tips to give away. I have the DVD but it was what he covered in his lectures back in the 90's as well. One tip is let the rubber cement dry on both sides before sticking them together. Side note. Derek Dingle went over how he did it in his lectures and I think it is on the DVD with sympathetic cards. He used a photo press to make DB and DF cars there were the same thickness as a normal playing card.
Let's hit these questions one at a time.
First, how do you split a card into 3 sections? The simple answer is, you don't. You take a single face from a single card. Trying to get both usually ends with one decent split and a second split that has little bits of black glue from the center. Try to get one face from each card. It uses more cards but you get better splits.
Second, what glue do you use? This is a tough one. If you want a really great *Snap* to the card then you should look at Dry Mount Tissue. Derek Dingle published this in The Complete Works of Derek Dingle. At the time it was a WELL kept secret. Today, it is the way to keep things together while maintaining a crisp new card feel. You need a dry mount press or a really good iron and release paper. This is much more of a process but it is quite clean.
Third, how do you line this all up? This is a difficult one. I find that using some sort of reference, like an engineer's square will give you perfect results. It's a perfect 90 degree corner so you place the bottom layer down then you place the glue or adhesive and the last layer goes on top but it starts a little bit out of the 90 degree elbow. Then you slowly slide it into the crotch of the engineer's square.
This keeps the lower split in the elbow nicely and constantly. When the top layer slides into place they are lined up perfectly.
That should keep you going.
First, how do you split a card into 3 sections? The simple answer is, you don't. You take a single face from a single card. Trying to get both usually ends with one decent split and a second split that has little bits of black glue from the center. Try to get one face from each card. It uses more cards but you get better splits.
Second, what glue do you use? This is a tough one. If you want a really great *Snap* to the card then you should look at Dry Mount Tissue. Derek Dingle published this in The Complete Works of Derek Dingle. At the time it was a WELL kept secret. Today, it is the way to keep things together while maintaining a crisp new card feel. You need a dry mount press or a really good iron and release paper. This is much more of a process but it is quite clean.
Third, how do you line this all up? This is a difficult one. I find that using some sort of reference, like an engineer's square will give you perfect results. It's a perfect 90 degree corner so you place the bottom layer down then you place the glue or adhesive and the last layer goes on top but it starts a little bit out of the 90 degree elbow. Then you slowly slide it into the crotch of the engineer's square.
This keeps the lower split in the elbow nicely and constantly. When the top layer slides into place they are lined up perfectly.
That should keep you going.
