Faro Help...

Oct 3, 2007
173
0
germany
Wow, i've never had trouble with a faro shuffle destroying the cards. Perhaps you are applying too much pressure? When i do it the cards "riffle" together smoothely and with very little pressure needed. Try giving the deck a slight bend, it can help sometimes.

Zep.
 
Sep 1, 2007
479
0
Philadelphia, PA
Is there a way to do the faro shuffle without ruining the edges of the deck??? I must have gone through 5 decks last week...

I went through at least that many decks while learning it on my own without any instruction. The best advice I can give you is don't force the cards into the faro, making contact at a slight angle without forcing it. You shouldn't have to push the decks into each other until they are separated evenly.

If you are looking for some instructional help I hear Michael Close has the real work on the faro shuffle. I rarely use the faro shuffle for anything aside from keeping my hands busy along with charlier cuts =)

--Jim
 
Sep 2, 2007
297
0
faro is a tricky one, but i've practiced enoguh that I can get a perfect 26 by 26.

Anyway enough about me. the trick is to not apply too much pressure and the rubs the corneres together so they weave or faro

Otherwise, just practice
 
Dec 14, 2007
817
2
Believe it or not, how the cards were cut at the printer (face up versus face down) affect how they faro. If you have a deck that seems to bind when you try to faro them, try turning the cards over. They should slip in more easily.

Also, the faro is not a heavy handed move. It takes a light touch.

It also helps if you use your pinky to act as a shelf that the two corners of the deck can rest on.

In other words, the left hand is holding its packet, palm up from below.Your first finger is on the short side of the deck off to your left. Its pinky is at the corner nearest the audience, on the short side that's on the right. The right hand is holding its packet, palm down, from above. The thumb is on the long side near rightmost corner. The first finger is curled on top. The other fingers are on the long side nearest the audience. (In truth, my pinky curls around a bit and is actually on the short side to my right.)

Move the packets toward each other. You want the two corners that are nearest the audience to butt up against your left pinky. Your left pinky is like a post sticking up between the two halves.

Now, with the packets stabilized, pivot the packets inward. The two corners should come together. The packets should not be perfectly parallel, but angled upward slightly. In other words, the two packets should make a small hump, not a valley.

Now allow the bottom two cards to begin to weave. If they bind up at this stage, turn the deck over and try again. Once you get the first few cards in place, then simply move your right hand slightly away from you. Do not increase the pressure, keep it steady. (In truth, you can move either packet in either direction but you do NOT want to "saw" the deck.)

The deck will practically weave itself.

For a great write up of the Faro, see The Complete works of Derek Dingle by Richard Kaufman.
 

AllanLuu

Banned
Aug 31, 2007
545
1
32
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
A few tips on the faro...

-Do it with a BROKEN IN deck.
-When you get 26 cards in each hand, just watch the top card of either of the packets, if that goes in, all the other cards will follow.

Those are the only two tips I used when learning the faro, and I can finally do it!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Dec 14, 2007
817
2
I think "broken in" is a better term than "worn down." If the decks is warped or if cards are crimped you will have a hard time with a perfect weave. Likewise, if the cards are dirty/stick they will bind.

Once you start working with a deck and it starts faroing well you will find (often) that it will keep faroing well. Part of this has to to with the "feathering" on the edges of the cards.

If you are doing a trick that requires lots of faro's, then you will want to use that deck for it.

Brad Henderson
 

AllanLuu

Banned
Aug 31, 2007
545
1
32
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I think "broken in" is a better term than "worn down." If the decks is warped or if cards are crimped you will have a hard time with a perfect weave. Likewise, if the cards are dirty/stick they will bind.

Once you start working with a deck and it starts faroing well you will find (often) that it will keep faroing well. Part of this has to to with the "feathering" on the edges of the cards.

If you are doing a trick that requires lots of faro's, then you will want to use that deck for it.

Brad Henderson

Your absolutly right, my bad everyone, it has now been edited and bolded.
 
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