shell

Mar 26, 2008
176
0
Los Angeles
I bought an expanded shell from jamie schoolcraft a while back and when I got the shell it was really clean(didnt look real)it was really shinny and was way different than my real coins(i expected more from jamie since i paid so much for it).So are there anyways of making the coin look more realistic. Thanks

-arman
 

Orb

Jul 19, 2009
84
0
Sweden
You're looking at it in the wrong way mate.
Remember that the shinier it is, the more light it can reflect, the more visual the coin becomes, and the more impossible and impressive your vanishes/spellbounds/whatnot becomes.
You do not want to grease your shiny coin since that shininess can do nothing but good for you. You will want to polish your other coins until they are just as shiny, and then when you try them out I can guarantee you, you will notice a difference (remember to reflect the light!).
There is nothing unrealistic with shiny coins, freshly made coins are very shiny, and depending on your personality, if the question would arise, you could just tell them you polish them (the love for coins has no limits!)
But like I said, I doubt anyone would ever think there's something fishy about your coins just because they are shiny.
 
Sep 24, 2007
417
1
Your problem is.... the date on your other coins is not 1964. They will be nickel instead of silver, and thus.... less shiny! Buy some silver coins
 
Dec 23, 2007
1,579
4
36
Fredonia, NY
exactly, you paid so much for it. So Jamie gave you a coin like new. If you wanted specific patina coloration dates etc, you have to specify. He is more than happy to make any coin to any specification he just needs to know what those are. As for aging the coins, search the coin forums, there are several threads on that matter. i will also agree that shiny isn't always bad. It really depends on the setting your performing in. Stage, shiny is better, easier to see. Personally though i prefer darker coins that are softer and talk less.
 
Mar 28, 2009
17
0
Got this from someone on MagicCafe:

As long as the coin is silver try soaking it in bleach until the whole coin is black. Then use a four way nail filing sponge block and lightly rub the coins on the block from course side to fine side and it will take all of the black off of the high spots in the coin but leave it in the low spots really accenting the coins nicely. If you screw up clean with silver polish and start again.

Good Luck.
 
Jun 5, 2009
23
0
Seattle, WA
The bleach bath works really well on silver. It is my understanding that it will destroy coppers and won't do anything to the newer alloy halfs and dollars. (post 64 Kennedy halfs and the Eisenhower dollars).

First clean the coins well to get an even coloration. If you have a bunch of oils from your hands on them, it can get a little bit of a tie-dye look to it. This can be done with regular hand soap or dish soap. If there is a bit of color on them already, (you get them from a coin shop, they won't be cleaned as collector's don't generally mess with their coins) try toothpaste or soaking them in coke for a little while to get the old color off.

Once they are as clean as you want them to be for an even coloring, I use a 50/50 mix of bleach and water and let the coins soak for 10-15 minutes turning them over half way. I assume that if you want them darker, you can let them set longer, but I wouldn't do it overnight or anything, as it is a chemical reaction and can eat your coins given a long enough time to work on them.

Then just buff off with one of those nail file blocks like Bungee says above. You will destroy the file by coating it coppery looking metal, so don't borrow your wife's/girlfriend's as she will not be happy with you. Try to be gentle with the filing and use as smooth a file as you can, because you are removing metal, and you don't want to scrub off too much.

I agree that shiny is good, but I like a bit of color, as it makes the design on the coin pop. If you polish when you're done, the coin will reflect plenty of light and have a visible design when you're handling it.
 
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